Belgrade in a paragraph

Belgrade is a serious city, which I expected, but I mean completely metropolitan. It seemed like a New York with European architecture. It is definitely beautiful, in a different way than Novi Sad. In Belgrade everything seems flashy and busy but Novi Sad has a much, much slower pace and it's more quaint. My host tata informed me that people from Novi Sad tend to not like Belgrade and vise versa, for the same reasons that I prefer Novi Sad: because there's fewer cars, people, shops, etc. However I really did like Belgrade just as I really do like New York, just in small doses. I'm still super excited to stay for an entire week in Belgrade in November since we are living in a hostel in the pedestrian zone so there will be many places to explore and no traffic to be bothered by. Food wise, I had some of the best foods since we'd arrived. In the pedestrian zone we had the most incredible hot chocolate from a cafe that we plan to visit everyday in November, and we ate some yummy wok from a Chinese restaurant right next to the cafe. (Side: I've been craving Thai, Japanese, and Chinese food so this definitely hit the spot, but it's strange because I never eat wok in Hawaii - the last time I had it was the summer of 2009 when I was in Montpellier, France. Perhaps it's the most popular Chinese dish in Europe.) But the best food was Ceca's husband's home cooking. He made a chocolate cake for our arrival and I had three slices because it was so delicious. And we also had two different types of pasta which were both amazing. So there's many things to look forward to our extended stay in Belgrade!

We're going to Belgrade!

I have a really interesting story that I've been meaning to share with you all but unfortunately my spare time has been limited. However it is fortunate as well because I am doing so many things here. But I very quickly wanted to inform you that our group is going to Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, on Friday and we're staying in Ceca's house that evening so we can do some more adventuring on Saturday. We are going to see a touring performance that was canceled last night in Novi Sad and thank goodness it was or else we wouldn't have been promised tickets for the show in Belgrade! Officially BYP allows for four trips each semester to other cities and neighboring countries for a day or two each and another trip for a whole week spent in Belgrade the first semester and Macedonia the second, but this doesn't count as one of these so we kind of get a bonus trip which is such a treat! This also means that I probably won't use a computer until Sunday, but I promise a thorough recap and some pictures of this week and our upcoming trip to Belgrade. Ah I'm so excited!!!

Dan bez ni telefon ni ključ

A day with neither phone nor keys

I knew I wouldn't get access to a computer until late in the evening for the rest of this week, so I didn't plan on writing anything until this weekend, but today feels really special and I wanted to share!

First, I woke up slightly late this morning, around 7:50. It takes me 30 minutes to walk to the University and my class begins at 8:30 so in my hustle out the door I forgot my cell phone and apartment keys. And I’m very grateful did. My host mom is kind and loving and she possesses all the selfless qualities a mom should, including the worrisome ones. Without the means to let her know I didn’t have my phone, I decided I’d go back to the apartment in the afternoon so I could get my phone and keys and let her know I was alright. I decided to be extra gutsy and take the bus since it would take nearly an hour to walk from my service placement. Side: this was the first time I’d taken a bus by myself... in my entire life. I had been told to take bus 4, 7, or 11 and I figured 7 was right in the middle so I took that one. Sure enough it put me just a few minutes from the apartment.

My next challenge was to find a way inside the locked entrance door since I didn’t/don’t know my host family’s surname as Serbian surnames all seem similar ending in i or ić. After narrowing down the list of fifty to that of five, two residents came out immediately solving that problem. At that point I figured I had done it; I had made it to the finish and now it was my turn to collect my $200. Instead, I was sent back to free parking as no one came to my host family’s apartment door when I knocked, rang, and bellowed. My host sister and mom told me they’d be home all day, so I figured they had just taken Loli, their toy poodle, on a walk and would be back within a few minutes. Plus this gave me some time to study the nominative, genitive, locative, and accusative cases, and who wouldn’t want to do that? (In actuality, I really really really love my Serbian language class and Serbian in general so studying is relaxing and pleasurable.)

Well forty minutes passed and I found myself sitting on the mildewy, splintered wood floor squinting at my notes pushing a light-switch every minute to trigger the ceiling lamp, still sans phone and keys. I decided to try my gusto again and knock on the closest neighbor’s door to ask if they had the phone number of Irena (my host mom). I don’t live in the safest part of town, but everyone I’d met in Novi Sad was very friendly and they are all about hospitality. After merely a week of Serbian language classes I hadn’t a clue what to say when a tiny, elderly lady answered the door, so I mumbled “moge telefon” which means something along the lines of “can phone” – I think – and she looked utterly confused responding with quick and muttered Serbian. Then I mimed picking up and dialing a phone while reciting the same line and she smiled, took my hand, and led me inside while continuing to talk in Serbian. Love those universal gestures.

Surprisingly enough I was able to pick apart some words and so I tried my best to respond with simple phrases about my hometown, school, age, family, purpose in Novi Sad, and most importantly my dilemma. After giving her the lowdown, her husband walked in and I said it all again with more confidence. While I retold my life story, the woman looked through her address book - what a beautiful way to find a phone number - and jotted Irena’s number. In person my host mom speaks English sufficiently but over the phone she was having a bit of trouble understanding the events of that day so instead of detailing my circumstances I asked where she was to which she responded that she forgot to tell me she was meeting a friend in the park before picking up Mima (lil’ host sis) from school--Serbian school alternates weekly between morning and afternoon school days. I didn’t even get to explain how I got a hold of her but I let her know I was fine and told her not to worry which I’m sure she still did. She wouldn’t be home before I had to head off to an event with my service placement that evening which gave me a few more minutes with the warmhearted neighbors who took me in. In my remaining half hour, I had some of the most meaningful and mystifying conversation since I’d arrived. We talked more about our likes and dislikes (the lesson of the day in school which proved very handy), the woman served me two pieces of some delicious cherry cake and sweet tea, and I listened to their stories nodding constantly though I could hardly understand. I kept on trying to ignore the passage of time as I was enjoying every minute to the maximum and I didn’t want it to end, but it did. Alas. So I packed my things and explained, or tried to explain, that I had to leave. As I began to stand up, the man, who hadn’t spoken too much in our brief tête-à-tête, stopped me and told me “kafa uskoro, moramo” - coffee soon, we must - to which I enthusiastically agreed. Perhaps I can visit them on Sunday with macadamia nuts in tow.

As I got settled on the bus I realized how much had happened that day because I forgot my phone and keys and how I would not have wanted it any other way. Though I hit a rough patch around the B&O Railroad, my experiences were worth far more than the $200 completion prize; they were priceless.

Unintended nonobservance

Internet is sparse and expensive, it is late, and umorna sam (I am tired) so I'm going to merely describe a thought of today:

While eating a delicious chocolate croissant that tastes like a melting chocolate chip cookie - according to Jill - I realized it was September 13th, 13/9 as Europe writes. It was only then, only this morning, that I noticed perhaps the most tragic day America witnessed during my lifetime had passed and it had gone completely unobserved. No American flag pins; no news specials; no words of hope, prayer, or mourning; no commemorative comfort. It was just another day in Serbia and I treated it as such which framed today with guilt and excessive thoughts of hope and mourning as I was disappointed in myself to have ever forgotten such a day. This primarily made me realize that even though the world is shrinking through technology, it is all the more vast than I could ever comprehend. And what a heavy thought to cap off my already guiltridden day! (This thought wasn't merely derived from the nonobservance of 11/9, it also came from my multiple difficulties in navigating the relatively small city of Novi Sad.) But in a happier tone my day was very busy with three hours of language, seven hours of service, and two hours of playing with my little (host) sister so I was often distracted from these discerning deductions.

More on my service placement, the Serbian jezik (I think this means language, though it is 11pm and so perhaps I'm mistaken), and my wonderful host family later this week!

Laku noc

The ever beautiful pedestrian zone of Novi Sad:



Don't let the blue skies fool you, it was cold.



Danube park, one of many in Novi Sad:



Jill and I at Salaš 137, a nearby farm:

Dobar dan (good day)!

When reviewing my “nearly a week” list (below), it seems as though the familiar no longer exists. And though it’s been a week of adjusting, it’s also felt a lot like home with Ceca—our absolutely incredible program director—and Jill, Asawari (Asya), Zach, and Andres—the amazing people I have the privilege of spending the next nine months with! It’s crazy to think that I met all of them just eleven days ago and we already are such a family unit. This week we’ve spent every minute together living in a hostel, eating out every meal, learning about Serbian history and culture though films, guest lecturers, and observation, and discovering Novi Sad by taxi, boat, and foot. On the 10th we move into our host families’ homes so when I’m living amongst Serbs I’ve been advised to expect a myriad of changes.

I should perhaps write a bit about initial impressions of Novi Sad as I will be stationed here until 2011. Its beauty is inherent as you can see from the pictures I’ve posted. There is a pedestrian zone so we can waltz the streets at our leisure without the interruption of cars and pollution (except that from cigarette smoke, and lots of it). People here are overly friendly, partially because we are foreigners but primarily because everyone is just really nice, except when they are driving as I've previously mentioned. Cafés, pekara (bakeries), restaurants, book stores, toy shops, and boutiques line the streets, and I’ve made friends with many of the shopkeepers.

Perhaps the largest change so far has nothing to do with the culture, but instead it lies in temperature, which you may have noted from the numerous mentions of layering. It’s been quite a wintry week for me; at night it’s gotten to the 40s (so basically below 0º in my thin, Hawaiian skin) and during the day it never seems to reach above 60ºF. But once I began to observe the customs of Jack Frost’s season wear, I enjoyed the nipping at my nose, sipping hot tea, and wearing vibrant scarves. Today, September 8th, has proven to be the first day I’ve felt warm with just one layer, so perhaps this will be an upward weather movement. This weather is completely unusual for a standard Serbian September, and some local Serbs have said they think it’s purely a temporary cold spell. However, it does get to the 20s in December and January so this icy bout has been a good test for me to measure my readiness for true chill. And as much as I cannot wait for snow, I’ve come to the conclusion that I'm not ready yet. But I now have three months to prepare myself by the end of which I will be more acclimated. So is my hypothesis. Now I’m just rambling about the weather. In my next entry I will have more to report with my homestay, language development, and new adventures. Until then, cao!

Nearly a week

In nearly a week:
I’ve traveled across twelve time zones.
I’ve forged a path to my hostel, favorite bookstore, university, program director’s apartment, and service placement.
I’ve been lost in the streets of Novi Sad.
I’ve answered the questions “What are you doing here” and “Why Serbia” seven times, each time with a different response.
I’ve expanded my palette with food combinations so distinct and fresh and alive.
I’ve ambled the main pedestrian road, Ulica Zmaj Jovina, a dozen times each day.
I’ve admired the beautiful and sometimes beautifully decrepit European architecture.
I’ve succumbed to contacts (everything is so much clearer now!).
I’ve learned to dance Kolo, a traditional Serbian jig.
I’ve asked at least ten people to teach me to sing “Osam Tamburasa” (part of a scavenger hunt).
I’ve sampled eight bakeries and more than a dozen restaurants.
I’ve eaten bread with every meal.
I’ve learned what a sweater is and that a cardigan and t-shirt just won’t do in anything less than 50ºF.
I’ve not yet met a single person who has lived in Hawaii (Havajah).
I’ve met Tanja Banjanin, a Serbian pop singer, and the lead singer of Atheist Rap, a Novi Sad band from the 90s.
I’ve learned that taxi drivers have really interesting stories to tell.
I’ve been freaked out by the Serbian voice which interrupted my call informing me I’d run out of credit on my “mobile” whilst on a solo exploration. Twice. I then bought phone credit from a disgruntled, young woman who had no interest in facilitating my struggle as I recited, “will you help me” in perfectly broken Serbian. (Note: This is not a proper representation of the typical Serb as I learned the next day buying phone credit again from a doe-eyed, middle-aged man who eagerly assisted my needs and gave me a handful of Smoki, a crunchy peanut-flavored snack, just for attempting to speak his language.)
I’ve learned that Serbs are extremely kind so long as they aren’t driving.
I’ve been required to specify non-carbonated every time I order water.
I’ve found two new desserts that I cannot possibly live without.
I’ve not watched a single American movie or tv show.
I’ve used the internet merely four times.
I’ve turned on a computer merely four times.
I’ve learned to appreciate socks that go above my ankle.
I’ve learned to layer clothing.
I’ve learned to appreciate layered clothing.
I’ve yet to see a Serbian baby that isn’t absolutely adorable.
I’ve heard from three people in separate conversations that my host family is amazing and that they have a miniature poodle and 10-year-old daughter. I'msoexcitedtomeetthem.
I’ve learned that Serbs’ evil Hyde appears while operating a vehicle.
I’ve used only a string or button to flush the toilet.
I’ve been frustrated by the acceptance of time negligence as tardiness is more common than punctuality.
I’ve not yet become accustomed to the excessive smoking.
I’ve introduced myself with my name, age, and hometown in Serbian.
I’ve mouthed every street sign to practice the Cyrillic alphabet.
And foremost I’ve realized how much there is to learn and do and see and discover and taste and experience and love in the next four months!